Salalah—Sublime, Stirring, Spiritual Setting

Yes, Salalah is a Holy land. Salalah is a sanctuary for spiritual solace, as it bridges the space between tradition and modernity. Places of worship abound in the city, and yet there are sites scattered here and there that indicate that faith and hope and awe can come together in the simplest of ways, for when the heart is uplifted and enriched, real piety abounds.

The big Mosque in the heart of the city is much more than a marvel of Islamic architecture; it is also a statement that religious practice is compatible with modern trends. Domes and minarets are to be seen dotting every landscape, as is the case with all other Arab habitations, for devotion and reverence are an integral part of everyday life.

I must confess that I know just a little about Salalah, much less about the Capital, Muscat, and also nothing of note about the other Wilayats that make up this country. But I do know what I know and I am sure that Salalah and its surroundings are steeped in religious and historical lore. My most favoured getaway is situated atop a hill some 35 km from the city. It is a must-see spot: the tomb of Nabi Ayub. To the Christian world, he is the Prophet Job, one of those men who never forsook the path in spite of the greatest adversities. The Prophet Job’s grave is simply covered in green cloth and incense fills the air. Just outside the built-up area, about two-and-a-half feet deep, is a visible impression of one of the feet of the Prophet. I used to visit the site at least twice a year and discovered that the well He used still has water. Whenever I had guests, I made it a point to take them on a pilgrimage there, for, in my mind, the Prophet Job is one of the greatest men to ever walk the face of the earth.

In the opposite direction from the city, and close to the village of Mirbat, famous for its horses and fishing, is an isolated tomb all in white—the resting place of the Prophet Ali, a direct descendant of Prophet Muhammad. The site inspires reverence, not only as a religious and historical landmark, but because, even today, people of all faiths make it a must-see monument, but also because it offers some respite for the steep climb into the mountains to visit the tomb of Nabi Saleh.

Right in the heart of the city and close to the old Lulu Supermarket is the so-called Pakistani Mosque, famous for the huge boulder that is housed within its precincts. From within this gigantic rock the Prophet Saleh miraculously brought forth a camel to remind the people of their duty to the Almighty, but when they paid no heed, the self-same rock was used to rescue the camel, as it returned to the place from which it came.

This particular Mosque is situated to the right of Lulu, if you stand in front of the Supermarket. To the left, very close by, is the tomb of Nabi Hamran, popularly believed to be the father of the Virgin Mary. Impressive because of its great length, the tomb is visited by believers of all faiths, commanding reverence and awe and piety all at the same time.

What I found fascinating in Salalah is an expansive compound, in the Dahariz region, that consists of Christian places of worship. There are the usual denominational churches, but what astounded me was the Church of Pakistan! Prayers are conducted mostly in Urdu (I guess), but at Christmas time, it is so wonderful to see all the separate churches come together for a common celebration. Wow! Wow!! Wow!!!

I told you Salalah was an enchanting place—a land of prophets, priests and kings and queens. I even have a theory of my own. There is the Biblical account of the Prophet Moses (or Musaa) leading his people out of bondage to freedom. That journey took forty years, so, I am theorizing, the people first trudged across the Red Sea, then clung close to the coastline of Arabia, until they finally reached their destination.

What a journey that must have been!